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Post by kelvin on Jun 29, 2022 2:26:33 GMT
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Post by redtangox on Jun 29, 2022 3:03:31 GMT
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Post by ckfan on Jun 29, 2022 21:31:32 GMT
Yes, what Rich said. I tried to use one of the relays that you got one time. It did not end well for the poor little Frigidaire it was attached to. The compressor stalled for some reason and the overload didn’t trip because the overload was sized for a much larger compressor. I walked upstairs and was greeted by the smell of very hot paint. That was a hard lesson learned.
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Post by kelvin on Jun 30, 2022 3:35:43 GMT
Thank you :-)
I have the suggested Supco relay on the way and I'll post some follow up images as I work through getting the Kelvinator fixed up!
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Post by kelvin on Jul 10, 2022 0:27:09 GMT
Hello again -
I'm planning out my approach to repaint/recondition the Kelvinator and it appears I would need to remove the plastic inner panel on the door to get the handle off at which point I would also need to replace the door seal. The door seal seams straightforward but looking for feedback on removing the inner door panel. If I use a couple putty knives and pry on both sides of the clips is it usually a no brainer - or is there a decent chance of cracking the panel if I try to get it out and back in?
Maybe best to leave the handle on and just clean/polish it in place and then mask it off when I paint the door?
Thoughts appreciated :-)
Thanks,
Allan
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Post by ckfan on Jul 10, 2022 17:22:12 GMT
There should be screws holding the door panel on if you lift up the door gasket and check behind it. Be very careful though because this old plastic likes to crack and break very easily.
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Post by kelvin on Jul 12, 2022 0:08:17 GMT
I'm thinking screws are much more forgiving than clips - I'll probably give it a go knowing I don't have to mess with the clips.
Is there a recommended replacement seal that people on the forum are using?
Thanks a million!
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Post by ckfan on Jul 14, 2022 18:06:52 GMT
You may want to check the supplier section for some good gaskets. I’ve had luck with the McMaster carr gasket listed in there. Not sure if that one will work for your unit though. You can also check out antique appliances. They offer lots of good door gaskets. store.antiqueappliances.com/Refrigerator-Parts_c_1.html
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Post by 508gm1 on Jul 14, 2022 22:33:24 GMT
There should be screws holding the door panel on if you lift up the door gasket and check behind it. Be very careful though because this old plastic likes to crack and break very easily. When I took the door card off of the 1940's general electric in the garage, I took the door off and let the sun warm it up for a couple of hours. Made everything just a little more flexible. If the door seal is in good shape, try conditioning it with vasoline after cleaning it.
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Post by kelvin on Jul 17, 2022 20:57:08 GMT
Thanks for the help everyone! Before removing the door and starting on refinishing I fired the fridge up with the new R081 and was pleased to see it kicked on. One bit of concern is that it is drawing about 2.5 amps after it has warmed up for a couple minutes. The metal plate shows the compressor rated at 2 amps. I know other compressors I have seen have an operating range for the amps they draw... Should I be concerned about this?
Thanks again
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Post by 508gm1 on Jul 19, 2022 0:13:58 GMT
The current draw will be a bit higher than nameplate due to the higher than listed input voltage. Can we assume the compressor has 110vac listed & that you are operating around 125vac?
I had similar results on my late 30's general electric. I went so far as to use an autotransformer to buck the voltage to 105-110.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 19, 2022 13:21:23 GMT
Thanks for the help everyone! Before removing the door and starting on refinishing I fired the fridge up with the new R081 and was pleased to see it kicked on. One bit of concern is that it is drawing about 2.5 amps after it has warmed up for a couple minutes. The metal plate shows the compressor rated at 2 amps. I know other compressors I have seen have an operating range for the amps they draw... Should I be concerned about this? Thanks again I wouldn't be too concerned about this, as long as it is not continuously above rated current. The current should start out moderate, reach a peak after a few minutes as the condenser heats up; and then taper off over the duration of the run cycle. The compressor uses less current when it is fully warmed up because the oil is easier to circulate when hot. Also, a major contributing factor is the evaporator temperature. As the evaporator gets colder, the current draw tapers off. In addition to what was said already about higher voltage now, versus when it was sold; there are other things to consider...... Manufacturers tended to under-rate the current and HP ratings of these units back in this day, as a means to make low energy use claims. All conditions need to be stabilized in order to see the rated current match the actual demand. Basically; once the cabinet is cold and the thermostat is cycling off and on normally; the current demand may be down to 2 amps toward the end of the run cycle. Another thing is ambient temperature. It's middle of summer now. I am sure the manufacturer has an ambient temperature specification for testing the fridge which is probably pretty moderate; again in an attempt to demonstrate low energy use.
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Post by kelvin on Jul 19, 2022 22:54:06 GMT
Great feedback and yes the unit was designed to operate on 115 and our typical voltage is around 120ish so that would contribute to things.
Good to know it shouldn't be an issue as I prepare to sink a good chunk of change and lots of hours into wiring, prep and paint .etc :-)
Thanks again!
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Post by kelvin on Jul 20, 2022 2:16:53 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 20, 2022 2:37:41 GMT
That is crazy looking! I haven't seen double-walled tubing in this area before. I have seen that sort of damage before, on tubing which was used only to house thermostat sensing probes. Water went in and froze repeatedly. This is very strange.
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