marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Nov 21, 2021 23:55:21 GMT
I'm surprised at the gasket cost. Did you look for Lamons L441 sheet? It's very inexpensive at the local hose and gasket shop. Had great luck with it for about 3 years on these compressors. I had to look up "stoddard solvent" which appears to be a hydrocarbon blend. That will likely have quite a vapor pressure and is likely why you're losing vacuum. Once that evaporates, it will likely not lose vacuum. However, don't forget that mechanical seals need a running-in period to burnish the faces. You might want to open the valves with the lines looped; and run the compressor for about an hour then try another evacuation. Points well taken. Honestly, I did not know to shop for Lamons L441. Live and learn. It looks like the motor is next on the agenda for cleanup. At this point, I am really leaning toward PAG 150 and 134a. I know that you tout 152a, but I am having an issue finding it with no bitterant. If I can find an old stash of r12 which may or may not be there, I'd rather use it and mineral oil. What say you?
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 22, 2021 2:13:58 GMT
I'm surprised at the gasket cost. Did you look for Lamons L441 sheet? It's very inexpensive at the local hose and gasket shop. Had great luck with it for about 3 years on these compressors. I had to look up "stoddard solvent" which appears to be a hydrocarbon blend. That will likely have quite a vapor pressure and is likely why you're losing vacuum. Once that evaporates, it will likely not lose vacuum. However, don't forget that mechanical seals need a running-in period to burnish the faces. You might want to open the valves with the lines looped; and run the compressor for about an hour then try another evacuation. Points well taken. Honestly, I did not know to shop for Lamons L441. Live and learn. It looks like the motor is next on the agenda for cleanup. At this point, I am really leaning toward PAG 150 and 134a. I know that you tout 152a, but I am having an issue finding it with no bitterant. If I can find an old stash of r12 which may or may not be there, I'd rather use it and mineral oil. What say you?
When I decided to rebuild the first one I did; I went to our local gasket and hose shop and told them I was looking for the type of gasket used for semi-hermetic refrigerant compressors. They recommended the L441 and had it in stock in a variety of thicknesses. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was commodity class material and the large sheet I got was not expensive enough that I even remember LOL! As for the refrigerant, don't forget that these are engineered for a combination which are non-miscible. Using PAG and any HFC refrigerant will result in a miscible combination which may cause oil dilution, oil oil mixing with the refrigerant in the evaporator and becoming trapped. PAG will attack many types of rubber and gasketing, as well so be very careful with that. I would not use anything other than mineral oil, or alkylbenzene oil (synthetic mineral-like oil). This will work with any refrigerant other than CFC such as R12, because R12 will mix with it and cause the same problems as PAG and HFC refrigerant. I do use R152A in these, but don't worry about bitterant. That is an oily additive which will stay in the can as a residue if you draw off the refrigerant in a vapor form and leave that part behind. If you want bitterant-free R152A; CRC company sells a duster can without bitterant. So, I would use AB oil or mineral oil.
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Post by elec573 on Nov 24, 2021 3:34:09 GMT
Jut reading through your post . Very interesting,that compressor is a thing of beauty .
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Nov 25, 2021 21:51:31 GMT
Jut reading through your post . Very interesting,that compressor is a thing of beauty . Thank you, Sir. I just realized this afternoon, that my new phone had a plastic lens protector over the camera. No wonder the photo quality was poor!
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 3, 2021 23:41:29 GMT
I am sorry to report that the Kelvinator has been put on hold. My wife is having a mental episode, and I am unable to go home.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 4, 2021 3:13:35 GMT
I am sorry to report that the Kelvinator has been put on hold. .... I'm so sorry to hear that. Hopefully things will get better soon. This time of year with shorter days can be very hard on people.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 19, 2021 12:20:00 GMT
Okay folks, I'm back in service and working on the Kelvinator.
Here is the stator cleaned, baked, tied, varnished and re-baked.
Likewise, the armature.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 19, 2021 13:23:31 GMT
Okay folks, I'm back in service and working on the Kelvinator. Here is the stator cleaned, baked, tied, varnished and re-baked. Likewise, the armature. That's looking good. How was the shorting necklace part which fits inside the commutator?
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 19, 2021 14:58:02 GMT
Okay folks, I'm back in service and working on the Kelvinator. Here is the stator cleaned, baked, tied, varnished and re-baked. Likewise, the armature. That's looking good. How was the shorting necklace part which fits inside the commutator? The shorting necklace looks good. It has a few arc burns and looks to have been quite hot, but it will be okay. I'll take some pictures of it.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 19, 2021 16:10:30 GMT
The shorting necklace. I will probably lightly polish the contact areas, but notice that the other end has new, unused contact points. I found one brush stuck in the lifted position, probably contributed to the darkened section of the necklace, but the brushes are relatively "new" and have lots of life left in them. A good cleaning is most of what this motor needed, but the end play was excessive at about 1/2". I have fiber washers to adjust that upon re-assembly.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 19, 2021 17:44:43 GMT
The shorting necklace. I will probably lightly polish the contact areas, but notice that the other end has new, unused contact points. I found one brush stuck in the lifted position, probably contributed to the darkened section of the necklace, but the brushes are relatively "new" and have lots of life left in them. A good cleaning is most of what this motor needed, but the end play was excessive at about 1/2". I have fiber washers to adjust that upon re-assembly.
Glad you have that and that it isn't broken. Those are "unobtanium" and have a very finite life. It's critical that the inside of the commutator, and the steel bushing below it, are absolutely clean of all rust, oxidation, grease and oil. Anything which can build up on the necklace will cause it to burn and arc away.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 24, 2021 23:14:06 GMT
More progress was made this week.
The mount grommets were kind of difficult to source. After two fails, shock grommets, and McMaster-Carr, I finally came up with a virtually identical setup from an Ebay seller.
The end play of the motor was excessive, now it is on the verge of tight, but it runs as quiet as a mouse peeing on a cotton ball. The only sound is the whir of the fan.
The previous motor builder made a couple of mistakes with shims rubbing on locating pins.
Here are some motor pix.
At speed
At rest
Grommets
Grommets
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 25, 2021 5:04:26 GMT
More progress was made this week.
The mount grommets were kind of difficult to source. After two fails, shock grommets, and McMaster-Carr, I finally came up with a virtually identical setup from an Ebay seller.
The end play of the motor was excessive, now it is on the verge of tight, but it runs as quiet as a mouse peeing on a cotton ball. The only sound is the whir of the fan.
The previous motor builder made a couple of mistakes with shims rubbing on locating pins.
Here are some motor pix.
At speed
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At rest
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Grommets
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Grommets
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That's looking nice! Thanks for the update.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 140
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Post by marko on Dec 25, 2021 9:05:09 GMT
The motor tag. It was tricky because the relief is very shallow and the more I worked on it, the worse it got, so I quit at the point of diminishing returns. It's nowhere near perfect, but it will do.
Merry Christmas!
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 25, 2021 14:29:52 GMT
The motor tag. It was tricky because the relief is very shallow and the more I worked on it, the worse it got, so I quit at the point of diminishing returns. It's nowhere near perfect, but it will do.
Merry Christmas!
Wow, that turned out nicely!
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