|
Post by joneske on Oct 13, 2021 15:41:50 GMT
|
|
zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
|
Post by zaneb94 on Oct 13, 2021 15:55:22 GMT
After listening for the start up sounds, it does seem that the buzzing is coming from the back of the unit near the relay. I can feel more vibrations near this area than others while it's running too. I'll read this over.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 14, 2021 12:42:41 GMT
After listening for the start up sounds, it does seem that the buzzing is coming from the back of the unit near the relay. I can feel more vibrations near this area than others while it's running too. I'll read this over. I would expect it's something loose in the relay.
|
|
zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
|
Post by zaneb94 on Oct 15, 2021 12:50:50 GMT
After listening for the start up sounds, it does seem that the buzzing is coming from the back of the unit near the relay. I can feel more vibrations near this area than others while it's running too. I'll read this over. I would expect it's something loose in the relay. Would it be worth repairing the old relay or getting a new one? I like keeping things original when possible. Also, until I get time to open this up, would it be safe to continue using the unit as is?
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 15, 2021 13:22:00 GMT
I would expect it's something loose in the relay. Would it be worth repairing the old relay or getting a new one? I like keeping things original when possible. Also, until I get time to open this up, would it be safe to continue using the unit as is? I always try to repair the relays whenever possible. Sometimes they are not repairable. However, if you change to a different type relay, it alters the sound of the unit. Original is definitely best. What you do need to be mindful of, is that the start relay can harm the compressor motor, in the event it develops a short circuit and fails to turn off the start winding. If it were mine, I would want to see what's going on with the relay before running it.
|
|
zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
|
Post by zaneb94 on Oct 15, 2021 14:17:04 GMT
I think I'm following the article above, but does anyone have additional pictures of pulling out the relay and common fixes to issues? I want to be 100% sure I understand how this is done before attempting myself. It appears that this relay is screwed to the side of the unit and can be lifted out for service. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Oct 15, 2021 22:43:32 GMT
That is correct, it screws into the condenser plate and just lifts out.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Nov 4, 2021 4:20:12 GMT
That wiring is extra crispy,as soon as you pull out the relay it’s going to have to be rewired. I have the same model and after 80 plus years , as soon as I moved the relay out the insulation on the wiring just crumbled.
Once you have the relay out you can inspect it It might be the contacts are in bad shape and not closing good enough so it’s arcing inside .
But
while you have it out I would take an ohm reading on the motor just to be sure it’s ok.
You can print out the manual or just look through it on this site it we’ll help you know what to look for.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Nov 4, 2021 7:17:25 GMT
I can't directly tell if it is, but I will try to listen for that a little closer. If this is a matter of rewiring, can anyone link a post that goes over this procedure? Thankfully, my door seal has helped bring the temp efficiency up a bit. My thermometer placed on the bottom of the cabinet was reading it was about 38-39 degrees consistently before, but now I'm about 34-35 degrees. I'm hoping this resolves the ice buildup issue too. My old CK-2-B16 made that same exact sound every time It started before the motor burned out (unrelated issue). It is very likely the relay. When I was diagnosing my fridge, the buzzing was stopped when I cleaned the relay and adjusted the contacts slightly closer together. Edit: I didnt see that there was a second page to this my bad, yall already figured that out!
|
|
zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
|
Post by zaneb94 on Nov 8, 2021 15:10:04 GMT
I'm having an appliance tech come out to look at this further, since I'm not experienced in this. He will check over the relay and wiring. However, if the compressor is the issue, he said that he can't help with that. Does anyone know if the compressor could be replaced on my CK if that needs to be done, or would I need a new top?
|
|
|
Post by redtangox on Nov 8, 2021 15:25:23 GMT
It’s unlikely to be the compressor as others have mentioned. Is this tech an experienced vintage appliance repairman?
I ask because many of the new techs won’t work on old refrigerators. Each time they look at them, they say it’s a bad compressor, when it isn’t bad. They also tell you they are power inefficient and you should throw it away, which is not remotely true or sound advice. 1960s refrigerators were power hungrier, but certainly not 1930s, 1940s, or even 1950s.
In my opinion, you should buy a supco RO81 relay online and test your motor with that. They are under $10 and your refrigerator may start right up.
|
|
zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
|
Post by zaneb94 on Nov 9, 2021 14:02:45 GMT
The tech isn't very experienced with vintage appliances, but he wants to install a new relay and test power on this unit after a new cord is added. I'll mention the RO81 to him to see if he might have one. He's an older gentleman who has a lot of vintage and new relays and has been in the trade for a bit, so I thought it'd be worth a shot. My fridge still starts up and makes ice - it just chatters when kicking on.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Feb 17, 2022 1:33:38 GMT
I have a CK-2-B16. From other posts I am hoping my problem is the Float not working. NOTE: Replies to the above post have been moved to their own thread, to help keep the troubleshooting organized. Please see: monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/2346
|
|