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Post by birkie on Sept 8, 2019 12:17:49 GMT
That's great! Looking forward to your observations after it has been running for a few days.
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 8, 2019 13:46:46 GMT
That's great! Looking forward to your observations after it has been running for a few days. Thanks! I was able to run it for two days before having to leave for work. It maintained a good frost line and sounded completely normal. Will see how the pull-down is for it when I start it up upon returning home. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 8, 2019 13:47:49 GMT
Excellent as usual. It sure looks like it is operating closer to what it should be with the low side in a vacuum like you saw. Current draw is lower too which is always good. Let’s hope it behaves! If it does I’d like to see a DR filled with it! Thanks, and yes I would also like to see a DR filled with it. Currently the cost of that would be very high; but it may not be worse than any other alternative. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 23, 2019 1:59:02 GMT
Got an update!
The Frigidaire has been running with the R1234ZE since the initial post was made on 5 September. It's now 22 September. I've been using it for a bottled water fridge daily.
So far, so good! The door gasket is very poor and the fridge is in my workshop in heat and humidity. In spite of this, it seems to run at a relatively low duty cycle. The condenser gets warm evenly while the unit is running which makes me think it is efficiently rejecting heat and condensing.
Frost line is high, but it's not frosting back to the compressor so I don't think it needs any adjustments. The evaporator door is iced shut and the switches are frozen in position. I know that's bad and I hate abusing it... just that as an experimental unit, it needs to be run tested in harsh conditions. 
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Post by CCL2F2 on Sept 23, 2019 3:24:36 GMT
“the switches are frozen in position” hopefully that doesn’t include the overload...
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 23, 2019 4:15:41 GMT
“the switches are frozen in position” hopefully that doesn’t include the overload... If the ice reaches the overload - something REALLY bad happened.... because that's mounted under the cabinet LOL! |
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Post by ckfan on Sept 24, 2019 11:47:35 GMT
Glad to hear it’s doing well! How does the run current compare to one that still has 124?
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 24, 2019 13:14:38 GMT
Glad to hear it’s doing well! How does the run current compare to one that still has 124? Thanks and yeah it is running well. As far as the running current, I would expect it wouldn't be that much different, however I never had one with R114. This one had lost its charge before I got it. I do know that the rated current is 2.1 amps for R114. With R152A (higher pressure) it was using 2.16 amps which is not much more than the original rating. These seem to have a lower power factor with lower pressures; thereby using less watts but not reducing the current much. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 18, 2019 13:55:47 GMT
So - got another update! She's still running like a top, although the over-frosting issue continues.
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Post by ckfan on Oct 23, 2019 15:30:22 GMT
That’s great. I think you’re doing a great thing by testing alternatives like this.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 23, 2019 17:15:05 GMT
That’s great. I think you’re doing a great thing by testing alternatives like this. Thanks! She's still humming along nicely. There's a little funny noise just after startup which sounds like some liquid getting pumped through the compressor. The frost line is not excessively high as it would be if there were too much refrigerant in the system. I think the compressor is showing signs of the abuse that I sadly caused, by allowing the parts to rust while I was out of town. I think the check valve is not sealing perfectly, so the compressor is backing up oil out the suction port into the line, then pumping that oil first thing when it starts. It's always sounded like this, so not sure what to think about it. I want to do this conversion on one which has never been damaged. Hope to find another one nearby for that. But for now, the 1937 is still working great. |
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Post by CCL2F2 on Mar 5, 2020 6:18:01 GMT
Fm200 monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/31/modern-refrigerants-so2-monitor-tops?page=5Because it’s a capillary tube system the evaporator might be overfilling when the compressor shuts off. R1234ze also appears to be used for air horns, although when buying gas that isn’t intended to be used as refrigerant I would be concerned that they might not do a very good job of removing the air from the cans before filling them, which would explain your non condensable problems |
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 5, 2020 14:54:04 GMT
Fm200 monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/31/modern-refrigerants-so2-monitor-tops?page=5Because it’s a capillary tube system the evaporator might be overfilling when the compressor shuts off. R1234ze also appears to be used for air horns, although when buying gas that isn’t intended to be used as refrigerant I would be concerned that they might not do a very good job of removing the air from the cans before filling them, which would explain your non condensable problems After adjusting the charge, and lowering the frost line about 1/2 inch - there was no change in the sound of the compressor. You may have read or seen in a video already but this compressor was opened for repairs, and then I got called out to a 3 month work assignment. I had put corrosion inhibitor on it but apparently it didn't get into the internal parts as well as I thought. There was some rust in the compressor. I suspect that during the off-cycle, oil is slowly leaking back through the check valve and puddling in the suction line. This is likely if there's any rust pitting in that area. I couldn't see that part and only cleaned everything with solvent and air. I recently built another project with an R114 compressor using R1234ZE and it has no such problem. So it's something with that unit, more so than a charge level issue it seems. |
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Post by CCL2F2 on Mar 10, 2020 6:46:06 GMT
You could try an external check valve, I found the other video and it looks like it also has some copper plating.
Did you see the four door frigidaire I posted in the refrigerator finds thread?
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 10, 2020 15:50:06 GMT
You could try an external check valve, I found the other video and it looks like it also has some copper plating. Did you see the four door frigidaire I posted in the refrigerator finds thread? Sadly; that copper plating is more than likely rust. The compressor sat with inadequate preservation for a few months due to an expected overseas work assignment. I've been extremely busy working on a Sparton fridge that is really neat. Haven't been following the forum as much as usual. You may be onto something with an external check valve. If I have to open the system again, I'll try that. It will be on the suction side so it would need to have a very low opening pressure differential. |
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