btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 23, 2019 21:50:01 GMT
I broke the control switch knob on my CK-1-B16 I'd attach a picture if possible. Am I correct in thinking the switch now is defaulted to on with the points closed? If so, I'm thinking I can just use the plug-in as the on-off function and let the temperature control do its thing. Defrost can be manual since I just bought this as a cool looking shop fridge. I'm just now starting the complete rewire and have the switch out and the top partially separated and insulation in a trash bag.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 23, 2019 22:04:30 GMT
Oh man that's a shame about the switch getting broken. I'm not 100% sure how the switch will function without the knob in the mechanism as it has a cam and levers on it which operate the defrost and motor overload reset function.
Seems like a bad week to be a Monitor Top control as yours is the second one to be broken this week, it seems.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 26, 2019 15:25:30 GMT
I'm making an assumption, based on looking at the switch internals, that the overload protection is a simple thermal. If so, it should reset on cooldown. The relay appears to be in good shape internally and from the way the wiring was installed without using the cord clamps I would guess it is a replacement at some point although it us likely an original type.
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Post by ckfan on May 26, 2019 15:41:41 GMT
The overload that is in these controls is a manual reset type. You have to turn the switch off and then on again to reset it. It’s a weird yet neat setup. There is a ratchet wheel that is held into place with solder. A heating element that carries the current of the motor is wrapped around it. When the mother overloads, it heats up the solder and allows the wheel to move and open the contacts. Once it’s cooled down you can reset it with the knob and all is well.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 26, 2019 16:27:53 GMT
I'm making an assumption, based on looking at the switch internals, that the overload protection is a simple thermal. If so, it should reset on cooldown. The relay appears to be in good shape internally and from the way the wiring was installed without using the cord clamps I would guess it is a replacement at some point although it us likely an original type.
Hi, just happen to have a video showing how that overload breaker works. It is thermal, but it needs the switch turned to OFF to reset it. www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6ctnJW8QlU
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Post by turbokinetic on May 26, 2019 16:29:07 GMT
The overload that is in these controls is a manual reset type. You have to turn the switch off and then on again to reset it. It’s a weird yet neat setup. There is a ratchet wheel that is held into place with solder. A heating element that carries the current of the motor is wrapped around it. When the mother overloads, it heats up the solder and allows the wheel to move and open the contacts. Once it’s cooled down you can reset it with the knob and all is well.
Yep, this is how it works. I posted the video link before seeing your post above.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 26, 2019 17:55:01 GMT
So now I have to figure a way to work around that reset... If I knew where the cam portion of the knob went, a gorilla glue session would be in my agenda.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 26, 2019 21:05:57 GMT
I see that when it's tripped, with a screwdriver through the front, you can push in the lever to the off position. That then that gives you the ability to reset it. Certainly not ideal but it's a work around and if the thermal trip is a rare event then I could live with it.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 26, 2019 21:26:25 GMT
So now I have to figure a way to work around that reset... If I knew where the cam portion of the knob went, a gorilla glue session would be in my agenda. From what I've seen, the entire cam usually falls down inside the control and stays in there.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 26, 2019 23:33:07 GMT
It is nowhere in sight. I've got the control out. When it got broken the switch side cover broke too and I guess the cam took a trip across the floor. That was almost a year and many sweeps ago. I would have seen it but my son wouldn't have noticed.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on May 29, 2019 23:20:02 GMT
Finished the rewire today and cleaned up the contact points in the control as well as the relay. Not that bad of a job and I had it separated far enough to get the solder gun in there to pull off the old connectors and use bare butt splices for the solder joints. Fired it up for a few minutes and it chills down nicely. I'll put new pink insulation in the top and wrap it back up next and then commence to clean it. You gents are all to be commended for your outstanding tips and methods.
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Post by ckfan on May 30, 2019 0:51:08 GMT
That’s great! I’m glad it’s working out for you. Sounds like you are on the right track.
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Post by coldspaces on May 30, 2019 16:51:18 GMT
Great to hear you had success!
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on Jun 16, 2019 23:42:28 GMT
My CK is up and running and looking good. Pictures at the Monitor Top FB group. It runs great and within an hour on setting 5 it dropped to +22°. Since there is no switch control knob or cam in there, it just runs continuously. I can get it to shut off by reaching a screwdriver in and pushing the lever down so I may do an experiment of sliding a wood dowel in and see if the temp controls will shut it down.
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btfarm
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 103
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Post by btfarm on Jun 18, 2019 17:16:19 GMT
A 3/8 wood dowel is exactly the right size. I now have great temperature control over the last 36 hours. Picture in the FB group. I am, however, heading to Wisconsin Thursday afternoon to buy another CK1 I found on the FB marketplace and that will give me a new control assembly. If I eventually find another control I'll rewire and refurbish this next one and probably sell it.
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