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Post by csulaguy on Sept 16, 2018 20:47:04 GMT
Wait, are you interested in repairing chips on the evaporator body, or corrosion where the lines meet the evaporator (or both)? Epoxy is tried and true on the lines, and folks have successfully repaired porcelain chips with the light-cured acrylic (on cabinet too). The latter basically what they use to repair cavities in teeth  That would make sense. It's a composite or resin material, cured via UV light. If I can repair some chips on my porcelain cabinets, we're definitely golden! |
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Post by csulaguy on Sept 27, 2018 15:32:08 GMT
So I ended up buying HIMG's consumer version of ceramicure and it sucks. I tried to cure it for 30 minutes with the included blue LED that thinks it's a UV light, and then about another 30 minutes with an EPROM eraser (with a UV bulb made by Phillips), and it's still somewhat tacky, and didn't really stick to the metal. I might try again today and give them a holler, before I return it to Amazon (glad I bought it as a Prime item). It seems somewhat like a joke, as it didn't work as intended for me.
So that JB Weld Steelstick is good stuff to use for the evap lines? I don't remember how bad mine had looked. I know on the museum DR1, the lines look fairly good, but there's still that restriction, which could explain it not being used very much, not to mention sitting in a large shed for 50+ years in dry heat.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 28, 2018 15:49:24 GMT
Update - I need to find the stuff I used (and edit the post to reflect the name), but I used a marine grade white epoxy. It needs a few days to cure, but I found it even cured in a DR1 that was running (turned it on about a day after applying the epoxy). You'll have to be pretty clever/good to sand out the excess so it matches, but so far, it seems to be a winner for me.
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