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Post by athanasius80 on Dec 11, 2017 4:45:11 GMT
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Post by ckfan on Dec 11, 2017 11:45:43 GMT
Welcome to the forum! I can't say whether those parts are correct or not but other more seasoned members will chime in. Good work so far.
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Post by cablehack on Dec 11, 2017 15:47:56 GMT
All looks good. I got my reducers from Heatcraft, part number 1009-0804. Not sure if that part number is known in the U.S. This is typical of what you need www.ebay.com/itm/Elkhart-Products-118-1-2-1-4-1-2-X-1-4-Copper-Fitting-Reducers/282432651342When working on the unit charged, keep the charge valve slightly open as the pressure may start to build up otherwise, because of rise in ambient temperature, or picking up heat from the blow torch. It's best for it to release at the charge valve and not at the pipe you're soldering.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 14, 2017 4:39:14 GMT
Absolutely!
Never solder or weld a sealed vessel of any kind! Ever! Or die!
It's kind of preferable to put a hose on the fitting, so vapors will be discharged away from your work area. Methyl formate is flammable--
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Post by athanasius80 on Dec 14, 2017 18:04:58 GMT
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Post by birkie on Dec 14, 2017 19:35:25 GMT
291056, the 99% anhydrous stuff.
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Post by cablehack on Dec 14, 2017 23:20:34 GMT
I will be curious to know how you go getting the methyl formate, given the restrictive sales policy of Sigma Aldrich. Some here have been successful getting it, but others haven't. If you are going to leave the existing methyl formate in the system, you shouldn't need to add any. Provided you make up the filter, reducer & cap tube as a sub assembly first, the system won't have to be open for very long - certainly not long enough to worry about evaporation in a cool location. I have always found the capillary tube conversion favours a slightly lesser charge anyway.
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Post by athanasius80 on Dec 16, 2017 3:53:33 GMT
Thanks Cablehack. The fridge owner wants methyl formate on hand as a "just in case" measure. He and I are reserving a day in our Christmas vacations to do this, and he wants to be ready for every contingency.
Plus I'll be using a blowtorch on the kitchen floor!
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Post by cablehack on Dec 16, 2017 9:31:27 GMT
I did quite a few disconnections/reconnections of cap tubes on the kitchen floor when I was doing the experiments to find the optimum size, and length of cap tube for 50 cycle operation. And yes, the methyl formate vapour was sometimes enough to ignite, despite the presence of nitrogen - it burns with a green/yellow flame. The intensity was like that of a candle, and was easily blown out. Having said that, I wouldn't be complacent about it. Blow it out soon as it ignites. I know it's stating the obvious, but make sure your blowtorch is actually capable of melting silver solder on half inch tubing - some say they are, but are useless for anything over 1/4" tube. You don't want to be stuck with an open system you can't seal up quickly. I was fed up with the modern MAPP gas replacement, so have since used an oxy/propane torch. Another thing too is the cabinet top insulation is flammable, but this shouldn't be a problem for where you'll be soldering. The grommet around the float valve will melt/burn slightly but that's difficult to avoid. I've used a wet rag around the area or a cooling gel which work well enough to stop it being totally destroyed.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 17, 2017 6:36:11 GMT
.......Or you can use Stay Brite 8 and a whole lot less heat. It's all I use, even on 410a.
"Stay Brite® 8
Description: Stay Brite® 8 Lead-free Silver Solder
Both Stay Brite® and Stay Brite® 8 produce an overall component with greater strength than a brazed component whose base metals are weakened by annealment from high brazing heat. Stay Brite® solders bond with all of the ferrous and nonferrous alloys. Joints soldered with Stay Brite® solders exhibit considerably higher than necessary elongation for sound, dissimilar metal joints and vibration applications."
(From their website).
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Post by elec573 on Dec 17, 2017 16:57:20 GMT
Blowtorch on kitchen floor 😬 I wouldn’t have to worry about the refrigerator my wife would string me up !
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 17, 2017 20:08:17 GMT
Blowtorch on kitchen floor 😬 I wouldn’t have to worry about the refrigerator my wife would string me up ! Yes that is definitely the most probable result. Kitchen Her's! Shop Mine!
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 18, 2017 1:07:55 GMT
.......Or you can use Stay Brite 8 and a whole lot less heat. It's all I use, even on 410a. "Stay Brite® 8 Description: Stay Brite® 8 Lead-free Silver Solder Both Stay Brite® and Stay Brite® 8 produce an overall component with greater strength than a brazed component whose base metals are weakened by annealment from high brazing heat. Stay Brite® solders bond with all of the ferrous and nonferrous alloys. Joints soldered with Stay Brite® solders exhibit considerably higher than necessary elongation for sound, dissimilar metal joints and vibration applications." (From their website). acid flux + POE+410A causes problems. Carrier knew it when they first introduced Puron (410A) in 1996 and told us to braze the 410A systems. I always braze and flow nitrogen on 410A systems as.
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Post by blackhorse on Dec 18, 2017 4:49:31 GMT
.......Or you can use Stay Brite 8 and a whole lot less heat. It's all I use, even on 410a. "Stay Brite® 8 Description: Stay Brite® 8 Lead-free Silver Solder Both Stay Brite® and Stay Brite® 8 produce an overall component with greater strength than a brazed component whose base metals are weakened by annealment from high brazing heat. Stay Brite® solders bond with all of the ferrous and nonferrous alloys. Joints soldered with Stay Brite® solders exhibit considerably higher than necessary elongation for sound, dissimilar metal joints and vibration applications." (From their website). acid flux + POE+410A causes problems. Carrier knew it when they first introduced Puron (410A) in 1996 and told us to braze the 410A systems. I always braze and flow nitrogen on 410A systems as. Absolutely! NEVER use acid flux (or for that matter rosin core) on any refrigeration system. Use the corresponding Stay-Brite flux (zinc chloride for most work, but the aluminum flux for soldering aluminum). It's a reducing agent ("ZnCl2") , not oxidizer (acid, "H**"). Basically (literally "basically", it's alkali), it removes oxygen from oxidized metal returning metal to it's pure state, not dissolving with acid.
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Post by athanasius80 on Dec 19, 2017 6:42:37 GMT
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