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D2-A16
Nov 26, 2016 5:34:19 GMT
Post by elec573 on Nov 26, 2016 5:34:19 GMT
Was woundering about low readings to ground ! No hope then ?
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D2-A16
Nov 26, 2016 5:54:09 GMT
Post by Travis on Nov 26, 2016 5:54:09 GMT
Not really. My DR35 had a 3 ohm reading and wouldn't start. That's one of the failure modes.
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D2-A16
Nov 26, 2016 6:19:17 GMT
Post by elec573 on Nov 26, 2016 6:19:17 GMT
Well thanks for your help when I get some extra time I'll pull the top off and double check wiring all the way back to base of unit .
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D2-A16
Nov 27, 2016 1:39:43 GMT
Post by tommythecube on Nov 27, 2016 1:39:43 GMT
Ok thanks everyone you all gave me very good info!!! ckfan that looks like page 40 in the dr manual thanks ! Agree with Tommythecube you would think there would be an open to ground on all terminals. Or at least very high thanks for your response! But I think coldspaces & Travis are right have to isolate motor leads and take a reading. Whitch won't be hard sense I have control already lifted off. I will lift all three and isolate then take a reading! Just to let everyone know I picked this dr up out of a one car garage and it had some oil on top by control like some one may have spilled oil on it or it was run off from cans being set on it . When I pulled up control wires they were not soaked but definitely not dry. Being this is cloth insulting material I can see it soaking up oil !!! Thanks again for your help well post after I have isolated motor wires and taken reading. Happy Thanksgiving !!!! Common to ground?? I wouldn't condemn the unit until you have eliminated any wiring issues and can get to the compressor terminals. Don't know how to get to them though. Others will help. |
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D2-A16
Nov 27, 2016 2:00:50 GMT
Post by Travis on Nov 27, 2016 2:00:50 GMT
I have never seen wiring bad enough on a DR to cause a a short to ground. It's very difficult to get between the decks of a DR.
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D2-A16
Dec 1, 2016 2:43:04 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 1, 2016 2:43:04 GMT
Well sense it's dead anyway it's a good one to experiment on !
What comes to mind is your dr3 Travis . I would have to go back to post but I believe it was the terminals on the underside .
Rust had bilt up on the glass terminals . Need to talk to coldspaces .
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D2-A16
Dec 1, 2016 3:03:58 GMT
Post by Travis on Dec 1, 2016 3:03:58 GMT
Yes, you're right. The terminals can corrode on both the outside or the inside.
Coldspaces has the advantage of being able to evacuate the so2 and remove the evaporator. That's what you would have to do to access the terminals.
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D2-A16
Dec 1, 2016 3:18:51 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 1, 2016 3:18:51 GMT
Yes I was just rereading about your dr3 .
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 2:30:48 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 2:30:48 GMT
Ok guys pulled top off today did some exploratory work on dr !!!   Pulled relay and base off first ! Saw this on door thought it was a reminder how people bought these years ago ! |
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 2:50:36 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 2:50:36 GMT
Then we got to the good stuff ! Put top on a cart I made and turned it upside down so I could work on it !   The first pic showes plug you need to pull to replace heater . Second turned it upside down so I could work on it . The screws were like wood screws and came out easily . Next used wood blocks to get at insulation being very carful not to stress any of the refrigeration joints can't (emphasize this enough) ! |
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 3:03:25 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 3:03:25 GMT
Had the plate up just high enough to get a hacksaw blade under neath to cut a slot into insulation so I could pull it out . It took some time and patience you don't want to rush ! There was 3 layers of insulation first like compacted sawdust second and third were more like fiberglass with a paper backing .  The wooden blocks under neath are what the top plate screws into . They are resting on the second layer of insulation they auctually used spacer blocks to hold them in place! |
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 3:20:46 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 3:20:46 GMT
Ok it took a while but finally got all insulation out . Here is the original wiring !  The wiring wasen't too bad it looks worse than it is ! The wires are held together by string wrapped around them . The ones going to the heater were twested around each other. If I was going to replace a heater by going through the plug ! After pulling plug I would pull heater out and then attach string to old wiring and pull new wire back to control relay block! |
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 3:22:52 GMT
Post by coldspaces on Dec 5, 2016 3:22:52 GMT
Nice work! Its lots of fun cutting the insulation out. I did that on Travis's DR3
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 4:01:03 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 4:01:03 GMT
Thanks coldspaces if you were a little closer I'd give you a new old toy to play with !  Ok after all of that I cut wires off and took a reading to ground right where they come out of motor all were 10 ohms or less ! Last pitcher is insulation I pulled out, the first one you can see where I cut the slot in it to be able to pull it out . The other two are more like insulation we would use today . But are not faberglass more like some type of paper . Well bottom line I believe this motor is grounded out how or why I don't know ! And the the cloth wiring was ok ! I could see the joints where evaporatore is attached are a very week point ! |
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D2-A16
Dec 5, 2016 22:23:20 GMT
Post by cablehack on Dec 5, 2016 22:23:20 GMT
Run it through an isolating transformer.
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