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Post by Travis on May 16, 2016 22:04:19 GMT
I finally got this 2 dr back together and running. It still needs a thorough cleaning. There are a few loose shelf supports. I also have to install the new trim and chromed corners. It runs and cools very well. The evaporators are loud, like Niagara Falls! It's very exciting.
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Post by ckfan on May 17, 2016 0:58:28 GMT
I'm glad that you got it on a cabinet. It will be nice to see it in its natural habitat. He isn't kidding about the evaporator sounding like a waterfall. It is loud but it works great.
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Post by Travis on Jun 5, 2016 3:24:12 GMT
The DR35 has been running fine. The frost line seems to be halfway up the headers. I still need to do some cleaning on the cabinet and tightening the shelf studs.
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Post by Travis on Aug 4, 2016 15:24:35 GMT
I looked inside the cabinet this morning and found that the unit had tripped off by the overload. If you try to turn it on, the compressor is free and it tries to start but doesn't go to run.
I don't know yet if this is a small problem or a really bad problem.
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Post by ckfan on Aug 4, 2016 18:19:00 GMT
I'm just spit balling here but...do you think that it is possible that the start contacts are stuck? I honestly have no clue but since you said the compressor tries to start but doesn't just switch over to the run winding that is the first thing that came to my mind.
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Post by Travis on Aug 4, 2016 18:27:25 GMT
I cleaned the start and run contacts and insulated a small wire that goes to the shunt coil. There's still no change. According to the diagram, I think it's poorly running in the run winding. I seem to not have connection to the start winding. I stuck paper between the start contacts on the control and there was no change, which has me thinking the problem is in the cap/transformer block. I haven't tried to short out the capacitor like the manual says. I have very little confidence I can do that without shocking myself and falling off the ladder.
I have a couple capacitors set up to replace the cap/transformer, but am wanting to not remove the control more than necessary. If I do find the capacitor is bad, this will make we want to replace them in the DRF4 and the DR4. I guess 85 years in enough for a capacitor, who knew?
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Post by ckfan on Aug 4, 2016 18:37:01 GMT
Huh, interesting. What do you mean by " According to the diagram, I think it's poorly running in the run winding."? I hope that it is just a problem with the cap/transformer or even better, just a loose connection somewhere. Hang in there! I am rooting for this one to pull through! I really liked it when I saw it running last.
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Post by Travis on Aug 4, 2016 18:38:17 GMT
Ray,
That would make sense if this wasn't a larger unit. I can see the contacts. This is one of the reason why the DR controls are awesome. They're big and easier to see what's going on in them. From what I understand, the coil closest to the front pushes the start arm up, the coil in the back energizes and allows the running contact to close.
I don't seem to have power to the front coil (no arm movement).
I could be completely wrong in my thoughts. I have trouble seeing what's happening. I do know it's not stalled!
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Post by ckfan on Aug 4, 2016 18:41:33 GMT
Well, at least its not stalled. I'm just hoping that the motor is still good. This thing was rebuilt and it would be a shame to see it go into the night after having soldered on for so long. Usually the rebuilt ones are good to go but I guess 85 years is asking quite a bit for an old capacitor.
Reminds me that I need to replace the capacitor on my 80 year old Emerson fan at home!
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 4, 2016 21:29:00 GMT
I was thinking contacts or the capacitor transformer. The cap may have very well gave up.
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Post by Travis on Aug 4, 2016 22:07:09 GMT
Gill, considering that I cleaned all the spring contacts below the control and replaced the screws, I am hoping for a bad capacitor. It seems like the capacitor is open since I don't get anything to the coils. I am surprised that the motor runs, though roughly. I can remove the control and investigate. The main reason I didn't mess with the cap was to not mess up the paint.
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Post by Travis on Aug 6, 2016 1:31:34 GMT
Since I thoroughly cleaned the contacts under the control in January, I am assuming that the capacitor has opened up. I have ordered a start and run capacitor to replace the block. I should be able to remove the block, clip the wires and connect the two capacitors. I am trying to not remove the control if I can avoid that.
If this doesn't work, then I will check the motor leads direct with the annie. The tall controls really are better, since you can get to all the wiring without removing the control.
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 6, 2016 2:09:51 GMT
What wiring diagram fits yours? I studied them some last night and it seems like something should be happening in the coils if the run winding is drawing current. Could it be a bad coil winding or bad connection under the base?
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Post by Travis on Aug 6, 2016 2:27:56 GMT
Page 25 on the lower right, also page 41.
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 6, 2016 3:09:13 GMT
That diagram on page 41 is terrible, so hard to follow from the base to the control on top.
The manual describes the operation of controls like yours with two coils. It says the arm the coils control is balanced to where it is normally resting on the core of the series (run winding) coil and the starting contacts are normally closed.( When no current is being applied) When current is applied the high starting current thru the series coil is sufficient to keep the arm against the series coil core and the start contracts closed till the motor starts. As the current thru the run winding deceases when the motor comes up to speed the magnetic forces in the series coil are overcome by the shunt coil forces and the start contacts open. At this time the run contacts close to keep the capacitor and start winding on.
If it is a coil it would be the shunt coil. If it opened the arm would never leave the starting position. I see you said you worked on a wire near it could it be broken? Is it possible to unhook one end of the shunt coil and ohm it out?
I also see you insulated the start contacts with no change,so that kinda shoots the coils being bad idea maybe. If it was running funny from being stuck in start mode due to a bad shunt coil I would have thought there should have been a change when you put in the paper to insulate the contacts.
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