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Post by coldspaces on Jul 8, 2014 12:50:09 GMT
This is an FEA-2-B16 unit with the 2 phase fan motor. I will be replacing the fan motor with the 1 phase type. I started by removing the nut and washer on the high side service valve to allow more flex of the refrigerant lines to the condenser coil. Next I removed the 4 screws that hold the condenser coil on. You can now carefully move the coil out to get at the motor. By gripping the nut in the center of the blade with pliers it can be removed. Removing the blade first will allow more room to get the motor out. This clip must be removed to get the relay loose to disconnect the wring. Here you can see the mounting plate sticking up that keeps the relay located. It has tabs that stick into holes causing the relay to need to be pulled out before it will lift up. I found the capillary to the cold control was in the way of letting the wiring move and had to bend it slightly. After removing the 3 screws that held the fan mounting bracket I had to force the grommet for the oil tube back out of its hole to provide clearance for the tube. Also the wires to the motor were so stiff I just cut them even with their grommet. To be continued.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 9, 2014 23:26:25 GMT
Here is the old fan removed but still on the mounting bracket. This 2 watt motor is as close to the 1 watt motor as they make nowadays from what I can tell. The main body of the motor is about he exact same size and length. It fit the original mounting bracket with absolutely no modification needed. It uses a rubber piece to locate the fan blade that the old one did not have. Just about back together. Next I will cover wiring of the old and new motors.
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Post by cablehack on Jul 9, 2014 23:31:04 GMT
Am I right in thinking you now have an FEA in your collection?
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 9, 2014 23:40:40 GMT
Am I right in thinking you now have an FEA in your collection? Brought 3 FEA tops without cabinets home when I went to St Louis. Since the motor seems to be what everyone needs to deal with I figured this how to thread will cover most all future questions about replacing the motor before they are asked. I really didn't what to remove the motor as I knew it would finish off the wiring to it. I am really in love this 2 phase motor and hated to end its life. I think it is the coolest little motor I have ever run across. But this thread needed done so out it came. Someday I will spend way too much time on it and try to revive this little motor.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 10, 2014 0:03:20 GMT
How do they pull off 1550 rpm?
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 10, 2014 4:39:50 GMT
How do they pull off 1550 rpm? That I don't know. Not sure they really do. I have been told in the past that the poles still decide the speed. Odd speeds like his may just be a way to be called special.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 10, 2014 5:09:44 GMT
Here is the original GE 5K51AL10 2 phase motor. This is the first time I ever saw a motor this small rated on the label to run 2 winding's at the same time at 2 different voltages, not to mention powering one winding from the compressor start winding. Anyone know if this was done primarily for efficiency? Here is the wiring of my unit with the original 2 phase fan motor. Sure wish I had a NOS box of these, they seem to be used on a lot of units. Here is the motor wiring only. As you can see the insulation is bad. Plan on all the wiring to the whole unit being bad if you do this repair. I am going to rewire the rest of this one now, moving the start relay made too many wires go crunch. Here is the same unit with the 1 phase motor. It is a very simple change. All you do is eliminate 1 wire, the white wire that hooks to the start winding. The new motor hooks to the same terminals as the compressor common and run connections. No fan motor leads will hook to the start winding. Attachments:
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Post by cablehack on Jul 10, 2014 5:42:47 GMT
How do they pull off 1550 rpm? That I don't know. Not sure they really do. I have been told in the past that the poles still decide the speed. Odd speeds like his may just be a way to be called special. There's always some slip with an induction motor so it won't run at the theoretical speed of 1800 rpm (on 60 cycles). The amount of slip for this one does seem a bit higher than I'd expect.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 11, 2014 2:34:58 GMT
Here is a FEA-2-D16 unit. As you can see the compressor mounts different making the motor much more accessible. This one should come out pretty easy without taking the condenser coil loose. The fan wiring should be the same as the FEA-2-B16
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 14, 2014 4:25:55 GMT
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Post by cablehack on Jul 14, 2014 23:36:06 GMT
The manufacturing dates are interesting. It could mean that GE were still doing compressor design work during the war. Question now is, what's the earliest FEA? I wonder how much of a gap there was between the last Monitor Top rebuild and the introduction of the FEA.
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Post by jhigdon2 on Jul 14, 2014 23:54:19 GMT
Intriguing to me is the various differences in the FEA evap, vs the S02 models. Perhaps a result of overcoming oil return issues.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 15, 2014 3:24:48 GMT
The manufacturing dates are interesting. It could mean that GE were still doing compressor design work during the war. Question now is, what's the earliest FEA? I wonder how much of a gap there was between the last Monitor Top rebuild and the introduction of the FEA. Interesting indeed that they were making the FEA during the war. Not sure when they stated making them.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 15, 2014 3:34:31 GMT
Intriguing to me is the various differences in the FEA evap, vs the S02 models. Perhaps a result of overcoming oil return issues. The FEA is a cap tube system, thus a "dry" system. Looks to me like passages and headers are scaled down to keep velocity up for oil return.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 15, 2014 5:29:27 GMT
Intriguing to me is the various differences in the FEA evap, vs the S02 models. Perhaps a result of overcoming oil return issues. The FEA is a cap tube system, thus a "dry" system. Looks to me like passages and headers are scaled down to keep velocity up for oil return. Looking at the pictures that evaporator looks more like a flooded type than a dry type. Though maybe that is just a poor assumption on my part based on the header I see on one side? What is going on, on the other side opposite of the header? It's hard to see in the pictures.
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