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Post by allan on Jul 10, 2014 0:54:41 GMT
Would it be suggested that I put a 20watt heater in my DR? Or would that not be necessary? Or should I just replace it with a standard 12 or 15watt? I am running 20 watts in Dr3. Maybe select a 15 watt for the Dr2. They seem to like a little more heat
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 10, 2014 2:27:29 GMT
Would it be suggested that I put a 20watt heater in my DR? Or would that not be necessary? Or should I just replace it with a standard 12 or 15watt? I am running 20 watts in Dr3. Maybe select a 15 watt for the Dr2. They seem to like a little more heat Ok, that's what I was thinking.
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Post by allan on Jul 13, 2014 3:19:37 GMT
It has been a sad day. Went to the shop this morning to find that the DR3 had passed away sometimes during the night! It was running well late last night with a 35 degree box. This morning the breaker was tripped and the unit would not start. Tested windings and found 20,000 ohms between start and common and 2000 ohms between each lead and ground. Run winding was normal at 4 ohms between common and run. When I left it last night both evaps were completely frosted, inside and out and boiling loudly. The previous owner said it always rattled very bad and I found it to have a bad heater. I assume previous stresses finally got the best of it. Discharged the charge today getting it ready to disassemble. Not exactly sure how I will proceed yet
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 13, 2014 5:26:51 GMT
Man Allan I am so sorry to here that the DR3 died already. Shorted windings is the last thing any of us want. I don't suppose you had any reason to check them when you got it. Would be interesting to know if they were already starting to go.
The fact the run winding to common is normal suggests all the damage is in the start winding. Do the new start contacts still look good? Normally they would have had to weld shut and also the overload fail to burn out the start winding. But yours may have wear that caused stator damage or just plan windings that are old and have been overheated. Will be interesting to see what you find.
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Post by allan on Jul 13, 2014 11:31:30 GMT
Checked new contacts in the control and all were good with proper clearance and free easy movement. I believe it just had too much existing damage and when I loaded it up the winding failed. I had adjusted the overload so that the smallest over amp would trip the control, and had tested the overload several times. The bimetal strip was barely on the edge of the Bakelite support which made it trip very fast. Will most likely tear this one down at some point to see what was going on and look for bearing damage and wear to the machined parts
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Post by allan on Jul 13, 2014 13:23:04 GMT
Man Allan I am so sorry to here that the DR3 died already. Shorted windings is the last thing any of us want. I don't suppose you had any reason to check them when you got it. Would be interesting to know if they were already starting to go. The fact the run winding to common is normal suggests all the damage is in the start winding. Do the new start contacts still look good? Normally they would have had to weld shut and also the overload fail to burn out the start winding. But yours may have wear that caused stator damage or just plan windings that are old and have been overheated. Will be interesting to see what you find. You mentioned stator damage. Is that when it comes in contact with the steel laminations due to bad bearings?
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 13, 2014 15:14:24 GMT
Man Allan I am so sorry to here that the DR3 died already. Shorted windings is the last thing any of us want. I don't suppose you had any reason to check them when you got it. Would be interesting to know if they were already starting to go. The fact the run winding to common is normal suggests all the damage is in the start winding. Do the new start contacts still look good? Normally they would have had to weld shut and also the overload fail to burn out the start winding. But yours may have wear that caused stator damage or just plan windings that are old and have been overheated. Will be interesting to see what you find. You mentioned stator damage. Is that when it comes in contact with the steel laminations due to bad bearings? Yes that is what I was thinking of. More likely to be the windings have been overheated too many times. By the time the rotor is hitting that badly on the stator it should have been stalling from the drag. Never know though till you look.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 13, 2014 19:56:24 GMT
Allan, that's a bummer. I'm sorry to hear that happened... Yet, there's hope! With the expertise within this forum, I'm sure you'll be able to revive that DR3. If this site didn't exist, it would be a different ball game.
Best of luck with the DR3!
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Post by Travis on Jul 14, 2014 4:50:44 GMT
I am sorry to hear that your DR3 died. I remember how upset I was when mine failed. The only good news is that you can now be actively involved in the inner workings of a DR3.
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