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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 17, 2022 5:05:18 GMT
Norm again, Progress I just removed the bottom of the cabinet because it had some heavy rust inside and outside. I already cut a piece of 306 stainless to replace it. FYI the bottom section of cabinet sheet metal does NOT just fall out after you remove the corner welds!! It is actually lock seamed with all 4 side pieces. To me this looks like a complicated manufacturing process. Anyhow a grinder with cutoff disc got it out. I also cut off all the brass rivets and removed the metal backing strips that are threaded for the finish screws. These will get cleaned rustproofed and replaced also this will make painting easier - no rivet heads to get in the way of a flat smooth finish. YES the thread size of the hinges and latch are ODD they are 1/4"-24 TPI I also took the bright work (including the 22 screws 1/4"- 24 TPI) to be nickel plated. If you didn't get anything to be chrome or nickel plated lately your in for a BIG surprise $$ I am also polishing the black plastic strips BRASSO seems to work nice with a buffer pad. Anybody have any tips for painting the top with all the fins and coils? Yeah tell me about it! Just got a quote of $500 for a few handles and shelves to be replated. Ouch! As for the painting, it's a pain to paint these things down in the fins area! Best to use a good quality coating remover such as Certified Sure Strip. I take the cardboard surround out and the insulation and electrics out, so that I can pressure wash the unit without wetting and damaging these items. Then use the coating remover between the fins as much as possible, followed by pressure washing. To paint, I tape off the deck part of the cooling unit since it is a smooth flat surface. Then paint the inside of the fins area. There is no convenient method to do this and it will get overspray on the deck if you don't cover it with masking paper. Once the paint inside the fins is dry, remove the paper and paint the top deck and exterior of the condenser drum. The overspray from the condenser and top deck won't be a problem in the fins area because of the concealed location and low visibility.
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norm
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Dec 20, 2022 21:55:19 GMT
Question?? Is it possible to pull new heater wires through the top unit? I know it's a twisted pair so they would have to go together. System is pressurized.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 21, 2022 14:32:48 GMT
Question?? Is it possible to pull new heater wires through the top unit? I know it's a twisted pair so they would have to go together. System is pressurized. It is possible, yes. What you have to be careful of is not damaging the compressor wires, because they are very difficult to replace on the DR machines; often requiring full disassembly. The heater wires can often be fished through.
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Post by elec573 on Jan 4, 2023 1:29:36 GMT
Hello Norm and congratulations on a working Dr !
As far as pulling new wire, it we’ll work but like turbo said you could damage the other wiring. I recommend using some soap on the wires as you pull them through,it’s surprising how much it helps . The big box stores have it just look in the electrical section.
Just to be on the safe side I think I’d replace the heater also . Your’s seams to be working but for how long,and sense it’s all ready apart it’s the best time.
Keep us posted!
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norm
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Jan 8, 2023 14:52:55 GMT
Heater wire update I replaced the heater wires BUT they just didn't want to move with a lot of pressure so I dug out some of the fiber insulation and found a second vertical rubber gromet I removed both gromets and tied a small piece to sponge to a nylon string (very long handled plyers) and with my vacuum through the heater access hole I got it through! Pulled new wires and used double shrink tubing around the wires (Both compressor and heater) where they passed through the inner gromet for added protection Question? When I removed the black plastic 4" strips (door and cabinet) they had a gasket of some sort for sealing. Is there a modern substitute?? Thanks Norm
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 8, 2023 15:48:52 GMT
Heater wire update I replaced the heater wires BUT they just didn't want to move with a lot of pressure so I dug out some of the fiber insulation and found a second vertical rubber gromet I removed both gromets and tied a small piece to sponge to a nylon string (very long handled plyers) and with my vacuum through the heater access hole I got it through! Pulled new wires and used double shrink tubing around the wires (Both compressor and heater) where they passed through the inner gromet for added protection Question? When I removed the black plastic 4" strips (door and cabinet) they had a gasket of some sort for sealing. Is there a modern substitute?? Thanks Norm It's good that you got the wiring done for the heater! As for the strips, they are a bakelite composite made by GE called Textolite. The Textolite braker strips had waxed cloth behind them for sealing. You can still buy "auto body cavity wax" to replicate this cloth. Or, you can use RTV silicone to seal the Textolite.
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Post by douro20 on Dec 4, 2023 19:43:41 GMT
Aluminium screws...I didn't think anyone would use those in a refrigerator, let alone back then.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 13:45:31 GMT
Aluminium screws...I didn't think anyone would use those in a refrigerator, let alone back then. Yeah, they are pretty awful! I think part of it is that aluminum was "new and shiny" back then. Therefore they saw it as a statement, of sorts.
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Post by elec573 on Dec 19, 2023 4:48:19 GMT
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