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Post by csulaguy on Mar 30, 2019 15:58:56 GMT
Lucky for you David, on my next trip, I also have 2 DR1s and the Frigidaire that also need some assistance! I'm just eager to get the DR3 going so I can pair it with my 2 door DR cabinet! Nice! I was wondering when that Frigidaire would make it down there It was supposed to go on this trip, but I didn't have the room on the trailer. I had 4 compressors and a goat in the rear that went to a customer outside of Houston. The next time I head up, I'll have a 14x5 tandem axle trailer, so I shouldn't be as pressed for room. Turbos posts are nicely done and informative. I just wish he was closer so I could learn first hand . He makes it look easy but if you don’t have the experience or haven’t been exsposed to it . It can be imitating! He's definitely a good day and a half's drive from me. I left Birmingham, and including napping at a rest stop, I got home about 26 hours later (my uncle lives in Birmingham). It was a lot of information to soak in in one weekend, but I got most of it, and it wasn't too terribly difficult. I will say that I did buy some gauges, and the long term plan is to return my Chinese Harbor Freight vacuum pump and get something of higher quality. Maybe if I learn how to properly solder/braze tube, I can also learn how to do capillary tube replacements as well.
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 1, 2019 1:32:17 GMT
Nice! I was wondering when that Frigidaire would make it down there It was supposed to go on this trip, but I didn't have the room on the trailer. I had 4 compressors and a goat in the rear that went to a customer outside of Houston. The next time I head up, I'll have a 14x5 tandem axle trailer, so I shouldn't be as pressed for room. Turbos posts are nicely done and informative. I just wish he was closer so I could learn first hand . He makes it look easy but if you don’t have the experience or haven’t been exsposed to it . It can be imitating! He's definitely a good day and a half's drive from me. I left Birmingham, and including napping at a rest stop, I got home about 26 hours later (my uncle lives in Birmingham). It was a lot of information to soak in in one weekend, but I got most of it, and it wasn't too terribly difficult. I will say that I did buy some gauges, and the long term plan is to return my Chinese Harbor Freight vacuum pump and get something of higher quality. Maybe if I learn how to properly solder/braze tube, I can also learn how to do capillary tube replacements as well.
Sorry about my absence here, as work has been hectic.
I can definitely vouch for the quality of your transport crates. More 2x6 used there than the law should allow!
Soldering / brazing is an acquired skill which takes a lot of practice. I still have issues with certain processes and it often takes more than one try before I get it right. But one of the main skills to learn is knowing if or if not it's right, based on how it soldered.
As for the DR-3 and the R152A discussions which have been ongoing; there's a reason to learn why this is not working; if it's not working. For instance, it does not work on low-side float machines unless they are adjusted. This is due to a density issue. Once the float is adjusted, the system has phenomenal cooling power, as you saw with mine and Travis's Frigidaires. We are on a dead-end path with any phase-out refrigerants used in the DR's. The ones which have R124 at this time are in good shape, but that product is not going to be around forever. There has to be a recipe developed to apply a non-phase-out product to these machines. I don't want to ever risk a healthy DR just to experiment; but Paul's DR-3 is a known-working model which simply has one known issue - a lost charge. It's the perfect candidate to make tests with.
Anything you can bring we will try to get going! But I have always been partial to your mom's Frigidaire. It is actually the reason I so badly wanted to get a belt-drive Frigidaire. I watched your video and found it amazingly "industrial" and "mechanical" compared to what we have now. So much a bygone era. Yet at the same time I felt so sorry for it, because it was just struggling and not cooling like it should. After I got mine working and fought the battles which were involved with that restoration, I hoped the information would help you with yours. Being able to help in-person with it is even better, though!
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Post by Travis on Apr 2, 2019 13:36:28 GMT
Go for it, but there are new refrigerants to replace 124. I’d rather not adjust the floats in the DR’s as almost none of them are bolted together. This would mean the modification is likely not something that a normal person could do.
I’ll start stockpiling 124 before AOC and her band of nitwits grab it.
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Post by csulaguy on Apr 2, 2019 17:09:51 GMT
Sorry about my absence here, as work has been hectic. You and me both. Just finished a 900 mile road trip, without having left the state! And I need to pick up grain today, which is another 380 mile round trip, again, without leaving the state! I concur, since we each have our own talents, and I enjoy learning from others as much as possible, even if it can be a bit much to taken in right away. On the note of refrigerants - this is probably a stupid idea, but what about the contents of what's in a can of PB Blaster or WD-40? Wouldn't there be some lubricity agents in there along with compressible propellant? Or would that be more of a solvent? Also, where is R124 derived from? And was R124 also used in methyl formate units as a replacement refrigerant, or was that R114? Go for it, but there are new refrigerants to replace 124. I’d rather not adjust the floats in the DR’s as almost none of them are bolted together. This would mean the modification is likely not something that a normal person could do. I’ll start stockpiling 124 before AOC and her band of nitwits grab it. Uhh, Travis? I don't think AOC can count that high. On the plus side, we can use her idea for free electricity for our fridges.
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Post by cablehack on Apr 2, 2019 23:38:10 GMT
And was R124 also used in methyl formate units as a replacement refrigerant, or was that R114? R11 or R123 are the modern replacements for methyl formate.
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Post by birkie on Apr 3, 2019 2:02:16 GMT
On the note of refrigerants - this is probably a stupid idea, but what about the contents of what's in a can of PB Blaster or WD-40? Wouldn't there be some lubricity agents in there along with compressible propellant? Or would that be more of a solvent? Also, where is R124 derived from? And was R124 also used in methyl formate units as a replacement refrigerant, or was that R114? Isobutane is the closest hydrocarbon to SO2 as far as it p/t curve. I don't know how well it would work in a DR, though, due to its high miscibility in mineral oil. That being said, emptying a can of PB blaster or WD-40 into the machine would likely be ... undesirable.
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Post by solarmike on Apr 3, 2019 2:51:56 GMT
Neither PB or WD-40 is a lubricant.....
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Post by csulaguy on Apr 3, 2019 5:53:00 GMT
On the note of refrigerants - this is probably a stupid idea, but what about the contents of what's in a can of PB Blaster or WD-40? Wouldn't there be some lubricity agents in there along with compressible propellant? Or would that be more of a solvent? Also, where is R124 derived from? And was R124 also used in methyl formate units as a replacement refrigerant, or was that R114? Isobutane is the closest hydrocarbon to SO2 as far as it p/t curve. I don't know how well it would work in a DR, though, due to its high miscibility in mineral oil. That being said, emptying a can of PB blaster or WD-40 into the machine would likely be ... undesirable. I forgot about oil miscibility, so good point. I was also running off not a lot of sleep when I wrote my replies. What's R123 derived from?
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Post by birkie on Apr 3, 2019 12:20:58 GMT
What's R123 derived from? R123 is a low-pressure HCFC, with a boiling point of 82F at atmospheric pressure. It is considered an alternative to R11, which is a CFC with a boiling point of 75F. Its fluorocarbon successor is could possibly be HFO-1366mzz, which has a boiling point of 92F (very close to methyl formate, which is 90F).
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Post by Travis on Apr 3, 2019 12:51:42 GMT
Grrr, why are we talking about R11 and R123 in a DR thread? Take that to a CA thread, unless someone intends to try charging a DR with MF. Might as well since all refrigerants are the same right?
Yes, it seems the issue with 152a and a DR is density. The belt drive floats are more accessible and that’s great. I still recall the difficulty that Gill had on opening the float on a D35. I have no doubt that David can open one, but I question whether modifying a float on a DR is a logical path. I’m looking for repair options that are repeatable with a normal level of skill and with as little modifications as possible.
I’ll not by typing isobutane, which is flammable in a DR which are known for damaged windings and leaks. I’m not interested in using an explosion to find that I have a leak. I’m sure 13 lbs would be an exciting event.
In my opinion, it would be best to follow down the path of suitable refrigerants: SO2, R114, R124, on and on.
Again, I’m sure it can be made to work, but why bother when a appropriate refrigerant is available and its greener substitute is also?
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frank
New Member
Posts: 4
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Post by frank on May 9, 2019 18:14:20 GMT
Go for it, but there are new refrigerants to replace 124. I’d rather not adjust the floats in the DR’s as almost none of them are bolted together. This would mean the modification is likely not something that a normal person could do. I’ll start stockpiling 124 before AOC and her band of nitwits grab it. Will R152 work with a complete bypass of the float and a cap tube drier install? Thanks Frank
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Post by birkie on May 9, 2019 18:21:24 GMT
Will R152 work with a complete bypass of the float and a cap tube drier install? Thanks Frank There is a good possibility, at least as far as addressing the "R152A seems to stall somewhere" issue. It is also likely that R152A could get by without a suction line restrictor, (unlike R134a), but I don't think that has been fully demonstrated.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 9, 2019 19:03:08 GMT
Turbos posts are nicely done and informative. I just wish he was closer so I could learn first hand . He makes it look easy but if you don’t have the experience or haven’t been exsposed to it . It can be imitating!
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm so passionate about my hobbies (and my work which is similar) that it probably does look like it's easy in a video.
It's a legitimate concern to me, not to mislead people into thinking things are too easy. I fear accidentally encouraging someone to try something which is over their head. But there is a real flip-side is this. I hate it when people are boastful and play up what they can do. If I say this is hard, that is hard, don't try this at home, etc. etc. and then I do it in the video; folks will see that as trying to build up how hard it is, and then be a show-off by accomplishing it on screen. That would open me up to some really uncomfortable criticism. So; there is a real trade-off here.
So bottom line, it's not hard; but it takes experience and a lot of time to devote to it. You have to learn the skills. When you're passionate about making something happen, it looks easy because it always looks easy to do something you love doing.
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Post by csulaguy on May 11, 2019 15:50:48 GMT
David said it well. Is what we did hard? Not really. Do you need to know what the hell you're doing? Absolutely. I'd say it's a lot easier than changing the battery in an iPhone or Android, for instance, with a sealed battery (even with step by step instructions, it's about 1-3 hours and requires a lot more dexterity and precision than working on our fridges).
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