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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2018 17:51:26 GMT
I thought I had a "pure" CK, (hence my "handle" name), but I found that I have a CK head unit mounted onto a '34 CA cabinet. The hinge wear up & down & side to side was atrocious; I removed the hinges & was delighted to see that under the top hinge where it meets the door, it said "7-1934" on the door paint. I understand that the forum is running low on photo space, so I will do an extensive VERBAL on this one! I retired from McDonnell Douglas & Boeing, building aircraft for many years, so I decided to "tinker"...
Anyway, I'll try not to ramble: I used a center punch & put a mark in the center of the orig. chrome "button heads" that act as the hinge pins. This keeps the drill from "wandering". Next, drill the pins with a 1/4" drill bit, to just below the surface of hinge body. CAREFULLY chisel the undrilled traces of the button head off. Then, using a 1/4" straight punch, hammer the pin downward until stuff starts falling out, bracing the hinge on a wood block at the bottom to prevent scratching the hinge body. Knock the parts out of the hinge half, ( the hinge half that bolts to cabinet) will have the most wear; I reamed this to 3/8" from the original 5/16 sloppy hole.Once the cabinet hinge half is opened up to 3/8", order some Oilite "hat" bronze bushings that are 3/8OD & 5/16ID. Put the bushing into the upper hole & the hat will take up the "up & down" wear (you still may need to further shim it with an added brass washer). For the bottom hole, a 1/4" long oilite straight bushing 3/8OD x 5/16ID will press right into there. For the hinge half that contacts the DOOR, those holes were still pretty much at 5/16", so I left them alone. Now, for a PIN, I used a 4" stainless Clevis pin, which has a tiny head that will not interfere with hinge removal if needed in the future. Plus, you can polish the Clevis head nice & gleaming, if you want. Throw the springs out (!)
BUT WHAT ABOUT THE "SPRING" action the hinges had? No worries! Your foot pedal will still make the door "pop open": My plan is to epoxy some hi energy RARE EARTH magnets to the inside of the black plastic inner door trim, so when the magnets are set to "repel", the door pops open! (The magnets are Renee's idea). We haven't assembled the door yet (the paint is still curing) but I do believe the magnet theory will work! Let me know your thoughts on this...
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Post by Travis on Aug 21, 2018 19:03:07 GMT
John,
No offense, but I would watch for a pair of less worn hinges. It’s a heavy door. I’m not sure if magnets would work.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2018 21:38:52 GMT
I did get so excited about the Concept, that I mentioned the Completion a bit early. I'll put my door back together after the paint cures & let the group know how the magnets work (or not). I've worked hard on this & I will complete it. Remember, the magnets are not for pulling the door CLOSED, they are for "popping it open", to be reversed, in the ANTI magnetic order. The old hinges & pins are all brass, & the springs place an enormous strain on such soft metal, causing most to be worn out. I don't see the idea of much support from the group coming now, because no one wants to ever disagree with your thoughts on things.
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Post by solarmike on Aug 21, 2018 21:48:36 GMT
I don't see the idea of much support from the group coming now, because no one wants to ever disagree with your thoughts on things. Hell I'll speak up, I don't mind at all.... I will help all I can....
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2018 21:57:56 GMT
I love & respect Trav, but I often get the idea he doesn't like ME...or ANY of my carefully thought out ideas...EVER!
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Post by Travis on Aug 21, 2018 22:12:37 GMT
John,
I simply made a suggestion, by all means proceed with your plan.
I sent you an email about this. I was trying to help you.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2018 22:14:40 GMT
Yay! As said, I love ya!
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Post by solarmike on Aug 21, 2018 22:28:02 GMT
I love & respect Trav, but I often get the idea he doesn't like ME...or ANY of my carefully thought out ideas...EVER! I'll respond back when I get a response from my PM.......
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Post by Deleted on Aug 21, 2018 23:09:10 GMT
Even closest family & the best of friends can have a "bump" in the road at times; all has been discussed admirably between parties & all is well.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 22, 2018 0:39:07 GMT
I thought I had a "pure" CK, (hence my "handle" name), but I found that I have a CK head unit mounted onto a '34 CA cabinet. The hinge wear up & down & side to side was atrocious; I removed the hinges & was delighted to see that under the top hinge where it meets the door, it said "7-1934" on the door paint. I understand that the forum is running low on photo space, so I will do an extensive VERBAL on this one! I retired from McDonnell Douglas & Boeing, building aircraft for many years, so I decided to "tinker"...
Anyway, I'll try not to ramble: I used a center punch & put a mark in the center of the orig. chrome "button heads" that act as the hinge pins. This keeps the drill from "wandering". Next, drill the pins with a 1/4" drill bit, to just below the surface of hinge body. CAREFULLY chisel the undrilled traces of the button head off. Then, using a 1/4" straight punch, hammer the pin downward until stuff starts falling out, bracing the hinge on a wood block at the bottom to prevent scratching the hinge body. Knock the parts out of the hinge half, ( the hinge half that bolts to cabinet) will have the most wear; I reamed this to 3/8" from the original 5/16 sloppy hole.Once the cabinet hinge half is opened up to 3/8", order some Oilite "hat" bronze bushings that are 3/8OD & 5/16ID. Put the bushing into the upper hole & the hat will take up the "up & down" wear (you still may need to further shim it with an added brass washer). For the bottom hole, a 1/4" long oilite straight bushing 3/8OD x 5/16ID will press right into there. For the hinge half that contacts the DOOR, those holes were still pretty much at 5/16", so I left them alone. Now, for a PIN, I used a 4" stainless Clevis pin, which has a tiny head that will not interfere with hinge removal if needed in the future. Plus, you can polish the Clevis head nice & gleaming, if you want. Throw the springs out (!)
BUT WHAT ABOUT THE "SPRING" action the hinges had? No worries! Your foot pedal will still make the door "pop open": My plan is to epoxy some hi energy RARE EARTH magnets to the inside of the black plastic inner door trim, so when the magnets are set to "repel", the door pops open! (The magnets are Renee's idea). We haven't assembled the door yet (the paint is still curing) but I do believe the magnet theory will work! Let me know your thoughts on this...
Hey John, I rebuilt the hinges on a friend's CK that may be on an older cabinet. It had 5/16" pins with springs as well. I wasn't able to salvage the spring functionality but the foot pedal still kicks the door open just fine. I am sure that the magnets will increase the force with which the door pops open, and that will be a help though.
My 1935 Westinghouse also had hinge springs which were not salvageable, and in spite of their removal during hinge repairs, there doesn't seem to be any real ill effects.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2018 0:51:21 GMT
Thank you for that, David. If need be, certain RARE EARTH magnets can be installed that even deliver 500 pounds of "push"! Looks like that kind of power, however, won't be needed. I'll let everyone know how this works out once it's assembled. Could be another month of paint curing, rubbing it out, etc.
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Post by birkie on Aug 22, 2018 1:10:27 GMT
A little kick to give it some momentum is all it needs, so if you can experiment before sealing them in, that would be ideal. My CK has a spring loaded plunger in the that does basically the same thing. It's not that stiff of a string, if I recall.
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Post by cablehack on Aug 22, 2018 12:56:55 GMT
BUT WHAT ABOUT THE "SPRING" action the hinges had? No worries! Your foot pedal will still make the door "pop open": My plan is to epoxy some hi energy RARE EARTH magnets to the inside of the black plastic inner door trim, so when the magnets are set to "repel", the door pops open! (The magnets are Renee's idea). We haven't assembled the door yet (the paint is still curing) but I do believe the magnet theory will work! Let me know your thoughts on this... Interesting idea, and from my experience with rare earth magnets, it sounds quite plausible. Great idea to put them behind the Textolite panels to keep things looking authentic. There's plenty of room to install enough magnets to make this scheme work.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 22, 2018 16:00:52 GMT
It's been an "arduous road" to finally get to this point in the discussion, but AMEN.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2018 4:51:04 GMT
Thanks to everyone for their input! Things got a bit turbulent at one point, requiring PM's on this topic, but all's well that ends well!
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