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Post by csulaguy on Sept 26, 2018 5:06:40 GMT
I don't suppose the brine solution ever comes out, does it? Or is that pretty much good for the life of the unit (in theory, anyways)?
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Post by 2030vision on Sept 26, 2018 10:24:51 GMT
Holy Crap Gil, What great job !!!!
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Post by birkie on Sept 26, 2018 13:38:43 GMT
May I purchase a set of plans Very clever. I'm seriously going to consider that for the DR3 in my garage! It strikes me that the plumbing of the evaps is different in this one, compared to the DR3 you rebuilt for Travis. My DR3 (presumably a later model, 40-fin) has the simplified plumbing like this one, with the distribution rail below the centerline of the evaps.
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 26, 2018 18:01:20 GMT
Birkie, you may have two sets of plans for free
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 27, 2018 4:24:10 GMT
I actually did the first flush of the float a few weeks ago and haven't found time to post it. I back flushed it with Clean Shot and it did flush out some crud. It did not dissolve it though. This week I picked up some CF20 coil flush. It will dissolve the "black crud" and the float is presently filled to the top with it. It is capped, but not real tight, so not much pressure can build up as it sits for a day at least. Will be interesting to see if much more black crud comes out. Filling it so full ensured that the screen that is in the inlet of the float will be immersed in CF20.
Here is what the first flush of the float got out.;
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Post by turbokinetic on Sept 27, 2018 11:06:01 GMT
Probably comparing apples to oranges, but in the auto air conditioning systems, the only thing I've found which will dissolve that black crud is an aqueous caustic solution. Again it may be a different chemical makeup of the auto A/C crud versus the SO2 system crud.
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 3, 2018 2:52:44 GMT
After 24 hours I drained the CF20 out of the float and found it was discolored a bit but not a lot. There was some fine black pieces that are not too visible in the pic.
Next I flushed it with 8 oz of Clean Shot and the immediately capped it up and let it set till tonight. You can see that it got out some more stuff. And what I would sear was a paint chip in the lower right of the pic. It crumbled up so easy when I touched it that I am not sure.
After setting for several days I gave it what looks to be its last flush as it did not get much more out.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 3, 2018 10:11:37 GMT
This is looking good. Nice to see that the flushing process is not only removing debris; but also there is less and less as you go!
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Post by birkie on Oct 3, 2018 13:07:16 GMT
Next I flushed it with 8 oz of Clean Shot and the immediately capped it up and let it set till tonight. You can see that it got out some more stuff It's interesting what it got out after only a handful of years since its last service. Do you think CF20 and Clean Shot are equally effective at getting out the black crud? Tangentially related, I'm wondering if pouring cleaner into a blocked float orifice will eat its way through, or at least soften the obstruction so it can be easily blown out...
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 3, 2018 13:39:03 GMT
Next I flushed it with 8 oz of Clean Shot and the immediately capped it up and let it set till tonight. You can see that it got out some more stuff It's interesting what it got out after only a handful of years since its last service. Do you think CF20 and Clean Shot are equally effective at getting out the black crud? Tangentially related, I'm wondering if pouring cleaner into a blocked float orifice will eat its way through, or at least soften the obstruction so it can be easily blown out... The Clean Shot does not seem to dissolve the crud like the CF20. I don't trust the cf20 to boil off as easy as the Clean shot so I flush it with clean shot last. If I leave both setting out in a container at atmospheric pressure the Clean shot all boils off, the CF20 does not. The CF20 should boil off during a vacuum but I feel better knowing most all the flush is already evaporated before I start pulling a vacuum. Several years back I flushed a walk in evap and the evap in the old oak cooler at the local park. Both got new condensing units with HFC refrigerants and POE oil. Although I tried to blow all the CF20 out with nitrogen I could I had compressor failures on both of these during the first year. I do not have compressors I install fail that fast as I put them in by the book. I have always wondered if I did not get enough of the CF20 out. So after that I don't trust the CF20 as the final flush anymore.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 3, 2018 16:41:49 GMT
It's interesting what it got out after only a handful of years since its last service. Do you think CF20 and Clean Shot are equally effective at getting out the black crud? Tangentially related, I'm wondering if pouring cleaner into a blocked float orifice will eat its way through, or at least soften the obstruction so it can be easily blown out... The Clean Shot does not seem to dissolve the crud like the CF20. I don't trust the cf20 to boil off as easy as the Clean shot so I flush it with clean shot last. If I leave both setting out in a container at atmospheric pressure the Clean shot all boils off, the CF20 does not. The CF20 should boil off during a vacuum but I feel better knowing most all the flush is already evaporated before I start pulling a vacuum. Several years back I flushed a walk in evap and the evap in the old oak cooler at the local park. Both got new condensing units with HFC refrigerants and POE oil. Although I tried to blow all the CF20 out with nitrogen I could I had compressor failures on both of these during the first year. I do not have compressors I install fail that fast as I put them in by the book. I have always wondered if I did not get enough of the CF20 out. So after that I don't trust the CF20 as the final flush anymore. Very frustrating when new compressors fail when you do everything to the best of your abilities. I had an incident with auto A/C compressors where the same failure happened 4 times. I was beginning to doubt my abilities, but in the end I decided to investigate the compressor its self. They were "NEW" compressors from a company who was importing them from overseas. They looked like "The Real McCoy" on the outside, but internally they were missing bearings and had metal-on-metal friction where the correct design had a roller bearing. That was just one of the problems. So, in the end I bought an original part, remanufactured. Never had another issue.
So my story is to say, that probably wasn't your fault that those failed!
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 3, 2018 18:18:52 GMT
The Clean Shot does not seem to dissolve the crud like the CF20. I don't trust the cf20 to boil off as easy as the Clean shot so I flush it with clean shot last. If I leave both setting out in a container at atmospheric pressure the Clean shot all boils off, the CF20 does not. The CF20 should boil off during a vacuum but I feel better knowing most all the flush is already evaporated before I start pulling a vacuum. Several years back I flushed a walk in evap and the evap in the old oak cooler at the local park. Both got new condensing units with HFC refrigerants and POE oil. Although I tried to blow all the CF20 out with nitrogen I could I had compressor failures on both of these during the first year. I do not have compressors I install fail that fast as I put them in by the book. I have always wondered if I did not get enough of the CF20 out. So after that I don't trust the CF20 as the final flush anymore. Very frustrating when new compressors fail when you do everything to the best of your abilities. I had an incident with auto A/C compressors where the same failure happened 4 times. I was beginning to doubt my abilities, but in the end I decided to investigate the compressor its self. They were "NEW" compressors from a company who was importing them from overseas. They looked like "The Real McCoy" on the outside, but internally they were missing bearings and had metal-on-metal friction where the correct design had a roller bearing. That was just one of the problems. So, in the end I bought an original part, remanufactured. Never had another issue.
So my story is to say, that probably wasn't your fault that those failed!
Yes it may not have been my fault or the CF20. Both were mechanical failures not electrical. The old oak cooler got a suction accumulator with the second compressor and its been just fine.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 3, 2018 23:09:37 GMT
Oh yeah, suction accumulators are always good. They make it so much more forgiving especially when you don't have an exact factory charge amount specification. Such as your refrigerant swap and new condenser.
We have a convenience store with an oak walk-in cooler. It has a walk-in beer case storage room, and also display doors for single sodas, water etc. From the 70's at latest! I haven't seen the condensing unit for it though.
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Post by coldspaces on Oct 4, 2018 3:59:26 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 4, 2018 12:05:21 GMT
Last night I also attached a funnel to the suction line and took out the schrader core in the valve that had been previously installed, it is located in the line the feeds in from the float. I had no real idea on how much volume is in the refrigerant parts of these evaporators so I just started filling it with CF20 and hoped it would not take the whole gallon. After 1/2 gallon it was still not comming out the schrader valve. When I got to approximately 3/4 of a gallon it started to bubble out the valve. At that time I corked it up and let it hang till tonight. Now it is flipped upside down for a day. This one will have every opportunity to live a long and prosperous life, with a nice clean start!
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