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Post by turbokinetic on May 15, 2018 18:57:23 GMT
I was able to get the grommet out and inspect the wiring as it comes through the opening. It was in relatively good shape, with no sign of bare wire. Obviously not what I was hoping for. Yeah that's not what you would have hoped for. Did the resistance to ground change when you were "disturbed" the unit, such as rocking the cabinet and allowing the compressor to bump the inside of the casing?
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Post by joneske on May 15, 2018 19:17:35 GMT
It didn't change but I didn't rock it much. I'll give that a shot, I don't have much to lose at this point.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 15, 2018 19:35:44 GMT
It didn't change but I didn't rock it much. I'll give that a shot, I don't have much to lose at this point.
Realistically, it will more than likely require disassembling the compressor for a reliable repair. However, there's always a chance it would clear the short. Never one to give up hope.....
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Post by Travis on May 16, 2018 2:16:17 GMT
I'm sorry to hear this. I can't see how this isn't internal. I don't see how jarring it will possibly cause a fix. It sounds like we need an assembly line to rebuild DR's. Now, if we can just find enough people that are willing to pay for that to be done.
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Post by joneske on May 16, 2018 16:16:49 GMT
Needles to say I'm bummed by this. However, I am glad I waw able to actully see and hear it run for a few days. I think I will mothball it for now and start looking into what it would take to rebuild it in case I win the lottery some day.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 16, 2018 21:59:36 GMT
Needles to say I'm bummed by this. However, I am glad I waw able to actully see and hear it run for a few days. I think I will mothball it for now and start looking into what it would take to rebuild it in case I win the lottery some day. I'm sure you're really disappointed. I would also be very disheartened. Definitely don't scrap it! Remember it lasted 80 plus years, so rewinding the stator would probably buy it another 40 at least! The 3 days running time did prove the compressor is mechanically sound; as well as prove that the refrigerant hasn't escaped leaving the system open for corrosive attack. If any unit would be likely to be successful for rebuilding, this one would be it.
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Post by elec573 on May 17, 2018 3:15:05 GMT
I think anyone that has a dr we’ll fill your pain , I went through it a couple of years ago. But I didn’t have as much work into it as you did. I have one working dr2 out of the 3 i had . And a dr1 Travis and I did some trading for . I still like the looks of them but I would run them for a while before I put too much work into one . There have been people that have had them rewound but I’m sure it’s not cheap .
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Post by timeswelding on May 21, 2018 0:48:34 GMT
I think anyone that has a dr we’ll fill your pain , I went through it a couple of years ago. But I didn’t have as much work into it as you did. I have one working dr2 out of the 3 i had . And a dr1 Travis and I did some trading for . I still like the looks of them but I would run them for a while before I put too much work into one . There have been people that have had them rewound but I’m sure it’s not cheap . It is absolutely not cheap.
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Post by elec573 on May 21, 2018 1:50:39 GMT
Do you have an idea of how much it would be to rewind a dr coldspaces ? Ball type number! Just the electrical part .
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Post by Travis on May 21, 2018 2:21:24 GMT
Herb, 400-900 depending on material used.
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Post by joneske on May 21, 2018 14:48:41 GMT
Herb, 400-900 depending on material used. I might have to start a GoFundMe.
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Post by birkie on May 22, 2018 2:48:05 GMT
So sorry to hear about this; I have a feeling it'll be back in service again some day, some way.
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Post by bhammer on Jun 5, 2018 3:25:18 GMT
Nice photos and video!
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Post by 100yearfridge on Jun 7, 2018 2:01:34 GMT
So, Joneske and I split his DRA2 top the other day, but we haven't pulled the compressor out yet. We cut the evaporator off, pulled the cabinet ceiling off, and removed the dovetailed wood (It wasn't solid, but 4 pieces held on with studs and nuts). I didn't have the equipment to separate the condenser from the float chamber, so we sealed everything up, and Kevin has been doing hard evacuations and nitrogen purges to keep everything clean and dry.
My question is, would it be best to remove the paint from the float chamber where the condenser connects, then un-braze it so we can pull the compressor off the base? It would seem to be the only viable option. I can't see getting a cutting tool in there, other than a hacksaw, but that sounds like a troublesome prospect.
I'd love to see you get the motor rewound, Joneske, but if it comes to it, we can probably go with a modern compressor too.
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Post by Travis on Jun 7, 2018 2:27:52 GMT
Boo hiss, modern compressor!
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